The Daily Sauce :: A Daily Sip of Hip

January 8th, 2008 edition of The Daily Sauce: Food and Wine. Visit Our Food and Wine Archive.

The Clover at Kaldi’s

We're always searching for a really good cup of coffee, something between fancy, espresso-based coffee drinks and regular ol' drip java. The Clover brewing system – available in St. Louis only at the new Kaldi's in Clayton – does the job beautifully, one cup at a time, while you wait.

Looking like something Q built for James Bond, the $11,000 contraption is the first commercial-grade machine allowing baristas consistent, independent control of the four variables of drip coffee: water temperature, coffee grind, coffee-to-water ratio and brew time. Just as a winemaker exploits different qualities from grape varietals, the Clover's unique brewing process (think French press marries a vacuum pot) brings out the bean's exotic characteristics.

While it ain't cheap (a 12-ounce cup runs $2.95), we found the nutty, sweet flavor of our Timor Ermera front and center, even if a bit thin and with the bit of sludge at the bottom of the cup – but you French press addicts are used to that. We also tried the three other single-origin coffees Kaldi's chose for the Clover: Nicaraguan Segovia, Ethiopian Sidamo and Kenya AA Mirundi.

But our taste buds were pleasurably overwhelmed when the Clover was applied to a special, limited edition Nicaraguan Cup of Excellence award winner. More about that tomorrow.

Sauce pick: The Clover
Price: $2.95 (includes tax) per 12-ounce cup
Where to get it: Available only at the Clayton Kaldi's coffeehouse at the Crescent, 187 Carondelet Plaza (near the Ritz Carleton).
Info: 314.726.2900 or www.kaldiscoffee.com

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