May 1st, 2008 edition of The Daily Sauce: Food and Wine. Visit Our Food and Wine Archive.

A Whiter Shade of Pale


Think of what those poor pudgy, pale stalks of white asparagus go through just to attain their tender complexion and mild taste; spending all their time deep in dirt, devoid of sunlight, unable to produce chlorophyll. Yes, it’s time again for white asparagus. Farmer Don Ross says white asparagus has long been grown in Germany and lots of Germans brought the method with them when settled in Belleville. Today, Ross grows the delicate young shoots at Ross Family Farm in Freeburg, Ill.

Just as he’s done over the past couple of years, Larry Forgione showcases the annual delicacy on his dinner menu at An American Place. Bad weather hampered the harvest and the annual white asparagus dinner was postponed to next Thursday, May 8. But Forgione and Chef de Cuisine Joshua Galliano have created an exquisite five-course meal built around the vegetable's subtle, clean flavor. In between the pickled white asparagus bloody Mary and the white asparagus pot de crème, there’s asparagus tartare and seared bay scallops, spiced Bison with grilled white asparagus, and white asparagus consommé. It’s enough to turn you green with envy.

Sauce pick: White asparagus from Ross Family Farm, served at An American Place
Price: Five-course meal, $55 per person; with wine pairings, $75
Where to get it: Thu., May 8 – An American Place, 822 Washington Ave., St. Louis
Info: For info and reservations, call 314.418.5800. www.anamericanplacestl.com




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